Fishing Gear

Basic Fly Fishing Gear 101

Let's get started right off the bat. Assuming you know little or nothing about fly fishing starting off, the basic set up follows. You will need a rod, reel, and line system that matches the flies you will be casting. Therefore, we must make some assumptions. I am going to assume you will be fishing for stream trout or panfish and will discuss the gear you will need accordingly.

For this type of fishing, a beginner will likely start with a "5/6-wt" graphite rod and reel combo which can be had for somewhere in the $100-$200 range. A typical rod length will be 9 ft. The reel will be loaded first with backing, a type of line that is used mainly as an insurance policy if all of your fly line is stripped off by a big fish. I hope you will need it soon. After the backing comes your fly line. I am going to suggest a 5 or 6 "weight forward floating line." This will serve many purposes and the only limitation will be when you are trying to target deeper fish. Tied to the fly line comes your tapered leader. This will be anywhere from probably 4X which will work for flies size #12-#16 and even a bit larger (for flies, the larger the number, the smaller the fly...go figure), to 7X which will work for flies in the #18-#28 size range. This is as small as you will likely ever use. The 4X line is pretty good for larger trout and even bass but will not cast small flies well and is more easily visible in clear water. Finally, you will want tippet that matches or is perhaps a size or two smaller than your leader. It is numbered with the same system as your tapered leader. Both tapered leader and tippet are available in various materials, the two most popular being monofilament and fluorocarbon. The fluorocarbon is more expensive but seems stronger for its size and also seems a bit less visible in clear water.

The "bobber" of fly fishing is called a strike indicator. You will likely want these when you are fishing nymphs (we'll explain that in a minute). They come in a number of varieties. One option is a foam or wooden float pegged to the line with a toothpick. These cannot be removed without unstringing your line. Another popular option is adhesive strike indicators, with the advantage that they can be put on or removed without unstringing your line. There are a number of less popular strike indicator options as well.

Flies come in several categories. They include dry flies, nymphs, and streamers. All of these flies have their special functions. Dry flies are most effective when fish are rising to the surface to eat aquatic insects. They are best fished up and across stream. Effective dry fly patterns include the Elk Hair Caddis, Adams, and Royal Wulff in sizes #12-#16. Foam poppers work well for bluegill in still waters as well.

Nymphs are also very effective for trout, as well as bass and bluegill in some cases. They imitate the larval stages of aquatic insects, and are the main food source for trout in most streams. Nymphs should be fished near the bottom of the stream under a strike indicator. Effective nymph patterns include the Hare's Ear, Prince, Copper John, and Soft hackle. All of these patterns are best fished in sizes #14-#18.

Streamers work very well for bass and trout, as well as bluegill in the smaller patterns. Streamers imitate baitfish, crayfish, or other underwater prey that is capable of swimming quickly. Some good patterns include Woolly Buggers, Clouser Minnows, Mohair Leeches, and marabou streamers.

This concludes the basic list of gear you need to become a successful fly fisherman. While there may be some other accessories that will be helpful in some situations, this article includes all the basics that are absolutely necessary. Get the necessary gear, and get on the stream to learn how to fly fish.

Walleye Fishing Gear - What You Need
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Steve_Lake]Steve Lake

Walleye fishing gear does not have to cost you an arm and a leg! You can get started for a minimal amount. I like ugly sticks. My Walleye set up is an ultra-lite Ugly Stick and a Penn ultra-lite reel loaded with 6lb. line. I also use a medium action Ugly Stick with 10lb. line sometimes but I usually stick to the lighter gear. My choice of lures is jigs about 1/4 oz. tipped with minnows, or worm harnesses. My ultra-lite Ugly Stick cost about $25.00 and my medium action cost about $30.00 My Penn Ultra-lite reel cost about $50.00 and you can get a decent set up for less than that. For my medium action reel I use Pfluger Tison reels. They are very reasonable priced and sturdy reels. As far as a boat goes you don't need one. I have caught plenty from shore. I do have a boat which makes it better when trying to locate walleye.

With a boat I point the back of the boat into the waves with the motor running and try to keep it this way by putting it in reverse for 10 to 15 seconds and steering a little. this is called back trolling basically you have spotted walleyes on the depthfinder and you are trying to keep the boat in one spot over the fish without dropping an anchor. It is a little hard to explain and kind of hard to do at the same time as fishing. It is not to bad in calm waters but when I learned how to do it I was in Canada and it was very rough. Once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy. Basically you drop the jig to the bottom and rise the jig up and let it fall when you feel a slight resistance when you rise it up or a light tap set the hook cause that's a walleye hit. Sometimes they hammer it but usually they hit pretty lite.

Another method is to be in 10 to 12 feet of water and use a slip bobber. Set it so it is just off the bottom with a minnow. Slow trolling, back trolling or drifting a worm harness with a night crawler is very effective. You can also just drift with a jig or a 3 way set up. Keep an eye on the depth finder and when you pick up a fish go around and drift over the area again. Try to stay in 10 to 15 feet of water.

Trolling a good sized minnow bait ( 5 inches or better ) along drop offs in the evening works well. I fished a cove on Castlerock Lake in central Wisconsin with a 4 inch Rapala that floated, it had a black back and a white belly. The cove was about 4 feet deep and I was casting from shore and I cleaned up on Walleye. It was pitch dark outside and the mosquito's were biting but so were the walleye!

As you can see walleye fishing gear does not have to be expensive and you can use many different methods to catch them and no walleye article would be complete without mentioning how they are to eat. They are great. so go out there and catch a a mess of walleye with your new found knowledge and have a fish fry!

To learn more about walleye fishing and what to use and how to catch them go to Tacklemaster Sports. Also read about the very rare or possibly extinct Blue Walleye Check it out at Tacklemaster Sports.

Website: http://www.tacklemastersports.com

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Fly Fishing Gear Maintenance
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Anne_Clarke]Anne Clarke

Are you wondering how to maintain your fly fishing gear? Fly fishing gear maintenance does not have to be difficult or even time consuming. In fact, spending a little time now to keep your gear clean and functioning well now can save you a lot of time and money down the road.

Whether you spent a ton of money on your fly fishing gear or even just a little, it is definitely worth it to keep it well maintained. Here are some tips for fly fishing gear maintenance:

Fly Rods

Your fly rod is your most important (and often most expensive) piece of fly fishing gear. Therefore, you really want to make sure that you keep it well-maintained. After use, always clean your rod (warm water and mild detergent work great) and let it dry completely before you put it in its sock. This is especially important if you have been doing saltwater fishing. Once it is clean, dry, and in its bag, store it in a hard tube. Another tip is to lightly coat your ferrules with paraffin. Replace any worn or broken parts as soon as you notice them.

Fly Lines

Why replace this piece of fly fishing gear when you do not have to? Lines have gotten better and better over the years. You used to have to use line coatings and conditioners often, now they are hardly needed. What is needed, though, is a good cleaning every once in a while. How do you know if you need to clean your line? If the line is sticking, you should wash the line with warm water and mild soap. Try not to stand on your fly line or rub anything against. Keep your line out of the sun if possible when you are not using it. Keep solvents like bug dope and oil away from your line.

Fly Reels

Use a corrosion-resistant product to coat your reel. When you are not using your reel, keep it covered. Do not simply drop it onto the ground! While you do not need to wash your reel necessarily after every use, it is a good idea to wash it every now and again (with warm water and mild soap). Be sure to follow any suggestions of the manufacturer that might have come with your reel. Before storing, back the drag off completely.

Flies

Instead of keeping great care of these little pieces of fly fishing gear, many people simply go out and buy new ones. Yes, it is a good idea to have lots of flies available, but you do not necessarily need to throw out a fly after it has been used once. With your flies, the hooks are the most important things to watch out for. You want to avoid corrosion (which is, of course, even more likely when you are doing salt-water fishing). Keep your flies dry. Rinse off your flies with warm water and dry them before you place them back into their boxes.

Main Points:

If saltwater fishing, you need to take particular care to wash your gear. Saltwater can quickly lead your fly fishing gear to a state of corrosion. When washing your fly fishing gear, use warm water and mild detergent. No matter what piece of gear you use or wash, be sure that it is completely dry before storing it away. Protect your fly fishing gear from the elements (keep it out of the sun, away from dirt and oils, etc.)

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on fly fishing, please visit [http://www.superflyfishing.com]Super Fly Fishing.

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Fishing Tackle Box Basics
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Roberts]Marilyn Roberts

One of the better ways of filling your fishing tackle box is to figure out what your box is going to be for. Is it going to be a general use box or specifically for pike, trout, walleye, pan fish, or bass? Are you going to be using live bait or lures? Answer those questions to get a tailor-made tackle box that will suit all of your fishing needs.

The next step is to get the box. You can get really large complex ones all the way down to small pocket-sized boxes. There are all kinds of good tackle boxes out there. A few of the good name brands are Cabela's, Stren, Bass Pro, and Plano. If you decide to use soft plastic baits be sure the trays inside will resist chemicals that are in the baits. The tackle box should state this on the label.

There are certain things you will need in any tackle box. Needle nose pliers with a good cutting edge would be one that you don't want to leave out. You can get one in a department store or get a workman folding set with multiple tools. As these are very easy to lose, just get the more inexpensive ones and they will do the job just fine.

Get a small folding knife to add to your box. One good brand name is Old-timer, tough but not expensive and will keep a sharp blade. Also a back-up spool of line is something you will be glad you added if you have to change a line in the middle of your fishing trip.

Bug spray, hand towel, zipper bags and a small first aid kit need to be in your tackle box also. You may not use them all of the time, but when you need them you will be glad you included them. If it starts raining, just slip your cell phone in a zipper bag. A hand scale and tape measure are also nice to have in your tackle box, but not necessary if you don't have a lot of room.

Now comes the fun stuff! Putting in your gear. You can put the main items in the general box and use other smaller specialty boxes for the specific fish you are going to be catching.

The general box can have a variety of sinkers, hooks, o-rings, leaders, bobbers, and other fishing gear. The general box can also double as a live bait tackle box, you can just grab it and be ready for most fishing trips. Keep a small selection of tiny jigs, soft body lures, tiny lures, and spinners in your general box as well.

If you are mainly going to fish for bass, set up a box just for them. Plastic worms, spinner baits, crank baits, whatever you use should have a box designed for them. Using a spinner bait box will keep your bait from getting all tangled up together and give you easy access to them.

Your crank bait box should have individual compartments in order to keep the crank baits from getting all tangled together. Soft body baits or plastic worms need to have longer compartments to lay out your bait and keep them protected. Also have compartments for your hooks, jigs, and sinkers for these baits. Sometimes you may need five or more tackle boxes at one time so you will be prepared for whatever type of fishing you want to be doing.

Having well organized and stocked tackle boxes will make it much easier for those spur of the moment fishing jaunts. The motto for a good tackle box is to be well prepared for any eventuality. Get your tackle box in order and you're ready to go!

Did you find these tips useful? For more fishing tips and articles visit my fishing site at http://www.fishingtipsabcs.blogspot.com and get ready to do some fishing!

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Common Pike Fishing Gear
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Shane_Dayton]Shane Dayton

There are many pieces of equipment that can be considered important when fishing for northern pike, and this goes well beyond the conventional things such as rods, reels, and lures. While these three are important, and will be touched upon, professional anglers (or even just experienced anglers) know that there's a lot more needed than that when talking about pike fishing gear.

But starting with the basics, a strong fishing rod is a definite worthy investment. You don't want anything that is a light action, as these will not be strong enough to take a major fight with a big sized pike. Even a six to eight pound northern pike can be enough to break a light action rod, and that isn't even all that large a fish by the standards of that species. Look for medium action at the lightest, or heavy action if you're really hunting the trophies.

The choice of lures is very important, and is an issue with pike that couldn't be covered completely in twenty articles. However, most experienced anglers do agree on a few main points. For one, choose an action lure. You do not want small or tiny bait that doesn't move. Pike are ambush predators and so they love crank baits, magnum rapalas, big surface spinners or spoons, rattles, blinkers, and whatever else you can toss in that gets their attention and annoys the heck out of them at the same time.

Moving on to reels, take an open faced over a closed face. They jam less, the line tangles less, and the design is better for seeing how well your line is holding up and for dealing with tangles even in mid fight with a big pike.

Another piece of equipment you might not think about is the fishing net. This might sound weird at first mention, but you need a strong fishing net made from reliable materials, and one that is large enough to net and hold a giant pike. A small walleye net isn't going to do it for a 40 pound northern pike.

You will definitely want to have needle nose pliers and big thick gloves. Especially for practicing catch and release. The gills around a pike's head can be extremely sharp, and you do not want your fingers getting sliced by those things. At best you're looking at stitches. At worst, some of that water and muck gets in and it's infection time. You don't want to put your hands in their mouths, either, which is where the pliers come in. Having a combination of gloves and pliers (and if you use crank baits with three sets of treble hooks you know how important this should be anyway) is the best way to protect your hands, save the lure, and in catch and release situations, save the fish.

That's just a brief rundown of some of the different types of pike fishing gear that are necessary to anglers who want to be both successful, and safe, in all their northern pike fishing endeavors.

This is all just touching the tip of the iceberg, as well. Believe me, there's plenty for you to learn about pike fishing and a lot of great information out there if you want it to help make you a better angler. And if you loved the information in this article and want to learn more about [http://northernpikefishingtips.com/pike-fishing-gear]the best pike fishing gear, then make sure to visit this online blog and detailed guide offering a wide array of [http://northernpikefishingtips.com/pike-fishing-gear]the best pike fishing tips that you can find around the web.

Thanks for reading, and good look chasing those trophies!

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Fishing Equipment - How a Fishing Reel Works

The basic purpose of a fishing reel is to hold line and then to wind it back in when either a fish has been hooked or you are needing to bring in your line for another cast or to quit fishing. Different kinds and sizes of line are used. Casts are different for different kinds of fishing. Also, the necessary cranking power varies by type of fishing. For these reasons, and for other reasons, different mechanical set-ups for reels have developed over time.

Spinning Reel:

Perhaps the easiest type of reel to use is the spinning reel. The essential idea for the spinning reel, is that the spool holding line remains stationary, and a bail revolves about the spool winding line. These reels are very versatile in that they come in sizes suitable for everything from ultralight models to heavy duty salt water models. Matching reel, pole, and line is quite important for these reels. Most are adaptable for left and right hand fishermen. Casting is very simple, and is perhaps the easiest reel for a novice fisherman to learn to cast. One final aspect of these reels is that they are available in differing gear ratios. A 4:1 ratio would mean that one turn of the handle would generate 5 turns of the bail. If you will be fishing lures that need to be retrieved more quickly (buzz bait for example), use a higher gear ratio reel.

Bait-Casting Reel

A bait casting reel works by allowing the weight of the lure or bait to pull line off of a revolving spool. Although the skill necessary to use such a reel was at one time quite challenging, for anglers willing to spend the money, there are now systems on reels that prevent the backlash that plagued novice anglers attempting to master their use. These reels are used frequently by fishermen for larger game-fish. The offerings presented by fishermen that use smaller baits and lures are not conducive easily to a bait-casting reel. Again, matching reel, pole, and line is quite important. These reels are also available in different gear ratios to meet whatever need you might have.

Fly Fishing Reels

At the most basic level of fishing reels is the fly fishing reel. Most, consist simply of a spool that turns one time for each crank of the handle. They do have many options beyond this level of simplicity. For example, where larger fish will be caught, a drag system may be necessary. Also, "large arbor" reels are available that hold more line. Of all the things that are expensive in fly fishing, this is one that does not necessarily need to be. Reels are matched to the fly line weights that will be used.

Closed Face Reel

A closed face reel is a type of spinning reel. There are a couple of major differences between a closed face and an open face spinning reel besides the cover giving a closed face its name. One, is the cast is usually done via a push-button release for the line. Second, but very much related, is the relative ease of a closed face and especially so for children. With the open face reel, a bail is flipped and the line must be held by a finger until release. With a closed face, the holding of the line is not necessary. The only skill that must be learned is the timing with the push button. Kids can pick this up very quickly.

So, the choice of a reel is one that should be made keeping in mind the type of fishing you will do, the skill required to use the reel, and cost of course. Knowing these basic designs should help you choose more wisely.

Soft Plastic Worms - The King of Freshwater Lures
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Salamon]John Salamon

When all else fails you, go to a soft plastic worm!

Out of all the different types of freshwater lures that are on the market, no other type of freshwater bait has caught more fish for freshwater fisherman than the humble soft plastic worm.

So what makes the humble worm the most successful and favourite of freshwater fishing lures?

Well for one thing they are dead easy to fish with, for most people the finesse style of fishing needed when fishing soft plastic worms comes naturally, even if they have never fished freshwater before.

Another great aspect of using worms is their action in the water, whether you rig your worms Texas style or whacky style, the action a worms presents to bass and many other freshwater species is just too attractive to pass up; which is probably why the humble soft plastic worm has become the 'go to freshwater lure' for most seasoned anglers.

So what are some things to look out for when fishing soft plastic worms?

Like most lures experiment, its a good idea to have a number of colours on hand although basic rule of thumb is to use lighter colour plastic worms for clear well lit water and darker worms for low light or stained murky water.

Purchase good quality worms, although rel=nofollow [http://freshwaterlures.blogspot.com/2009/09/soft-plastics-fishing-with-senko-worms.html]plastic worms might seem pretty simple enough, purchasing a good quality well known plastic worm will see you catch more fish. The action of the worm in the water, its impregnated scent and its appearance in the water will all contribute to your fishing success.

Patience is vital, when fishing worms as with fishing many other freshwater lures be sure to give your worm a good workout before switching your type of bait or moving to another area. You never know what may be lurking on the fringes just ready to ambush your soft plastic lure on your next cast.

The weight of the plastic worm will dictate how you fish, if you are fishing in deeper water you will need a heavier worm and may even have to weight your worm with a jig head or use nail weights when wacky rigged, though in my experience adding weight to your soft plastic worm can take away some of the worm's action.

All in all if you want to catch more fish more often, you would do well to have a handful of quality soft plastic worms of different colours and sizes on hand for your next bass fishing trip.

John Salamon is a avid product tester of freshwater lures and experienced freshwater fisherman who enjoys writing about his passion.

For more informative articles on the latest freshwater lures available and some great freshwater fishing techniques visit the [http://freshwaterlures.blogspot.com/]Freshwater Lures website.

Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Soft-Plastic-Worms---The-King-of-Freshwater-Lures&id=3003866] Soft Plastic Worms - The King of Freshwater Lures

A Detailed Guide to Crankbait Fishing For Bass
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Steven_Vonbrandt]Steven Vonbrandt

When it comes to fishing crankbaits, there are always a million questions, with just about as many answers. Some of the common questions of what kind, what colors, when and where to use them, are going to be answered in this guide. There will always be new products and new ideas that may or may not work, but hopefully the following guide will give you the answers to most of the questions that are constantly being asked by the beginner to the advanced angler.

"WHAT ARE CRANKBAITS?"

There are as many manufacturers of crankbaits as there are colors. Some of the more popular makers of crankbaits are Luhr Jensen, Mann's,Bomber, Storm, Berkley, Bill Lewis, Rapala, Lucky Craft and Rebel. There are of course, many more, including hundreds of custom made crankbaits by individuals and smaller companies.

Crankbaits are minnow imitating lures, that float and/or suspend in the water column, have different sized lips and body shapes, and some have no lips at all. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, shapes, and weights, all of which are designed for a particular action and depth, to closely simulate a fleeing or injured baitfish or crawfish. First we will start with the floating and suspending variety of fat and slim bodied crankbaits.

"BODY SHAPES"

The different body shapes that are offered all have distinct advantages over each other at different times of the year, depending mostly on water temperature, and the size of the baitfish available in that particular body of water. There are always exceptions to the rules, but basically the slimmer, flat sided crankbaits, that float, and/or suspend, are better early and late in the year, when the water temperatures are below 60 degrees. The flat sided crankbaits will mimic a fleeing crawfish early in the year, and the best colors at that time are shades of red or brown.

The proper depth is very important, as you want the bait as close to the bottom as possible to simulate a feeding or fleeing crawfish.

The lures with the flat sides have a neutral buoyancy, which is very important in making the lure perform like a real crawfish. I like to use a bait that has a bill made to bump against rocks and other cover to achieve this result without getting hung up or breaking. The flat sided crankbaits help me do this.

The Bomber Flat A is also a good choice for this, and catch a lot of pre-spawn bass with this bait, using a slow steady retrieve. In the fall, I use different shad patterns like Pearl, or Chrome, for bass that are suspending this time of year. I use a steady, slow to medium retrieve for this, sometimes bumping into objects, but most of the time a steady retrieve has worked best at this time of year.

In a tournament in the fall, I boated a 18 pound stringer, using this method, to win the tournament and take big bass with a 4 pounder.

I like to target the shores that are wind blown first, when working these baits, and a lot of the time, in some of the New York and New Jersey Lakes that have clay or tapering gravel banks, I throw these flat sided crankbaits, because I can catch fish in areas where there is little cover and most people don't fish! The flat sided crankbaits are more for bass that are holding in water that is about 3-8 feet deep. Most of the flat sided crankbaits don't work properly any deeper than 7 or 8 feet. Most of the time I don't fish these flat sides in heavy cover, but there is one that was made by Poe's, that is called an RC3, that seems to produce well in heavier cover. In open water, I usually use a Shad Rap, made by Rapala, because I found that it produces some good bass in relatively open water.

I use spinning gear most of the time to throw these baits, like the Shad Rap, and I use 8-10 pound test line, with a Shimano reel. I do use a baitcaster in 7 foot, with a medium-action rod, like a Lew's or G.Loomis, with a Lew's reel or Shimano geared down lower. I don't really fool around with these baits as they are mostly made of wood, and they all have their own "personality" anyway. Sometimes I go through 10 or 15 crankbaits before finding 2 or 3 with just the right action. In the colder water I like the Shad Rap and I also like the Bomber Flat A best. When the water temperature is in the 40's and 50's I like it to wiggle a little tighter, and these baits achieve this action well.

Baitfish are the main forage of bass in cold water, so I always try to match the bait with the prey. The Flat A seems to look like a Shad or maybe a Bluegill, which is the main forage in a lot of the lakes I fish,and it works well in the lakes that have clearer water. I have used this bait with success over the tops of the Hydrilla beds in some Florida Lakes, as it doesn't pick up much grass because of the real tight wiggle. I caught several nice bass from Stick Marsh and Walk-In-Water on this bait before. It also produced good in Lake Jackson. I always try to use 8 pound test whenever I can, as it usually allows the crankbaits to achieve their maximum depth, and action.

Recently the best flat sided baits here in the northeast have been the Lucky Craft Flat CB and Mini CB, as well as the new Sebile baits.

These 2-inch master crank lures by Lucky Craft are essential components in the planning of tournament tactics today. To further increase productivity, you must correctly understand the different applications and effects of the Flat Mini SR, MR and DR baits and learn, through actual gripping sensations, the "sweet spots" of the respective lures. The unique screw of water flow generated by the flat side ensures the best luring movements, which are akin to those of the original Flat CB. Indeed, the SR, MR and DR are miracle baits that combine an optimal lip shape designed to quickly reach the strike zone, an effective gravity-center shift for maximal castability, and a longer stroke for attracting bass in a wider area. These Lucky Craft baits are some of the better new Flat Side crankbaits available.

The other new flat side baits that have really produced since they were introduced are the Sebile Flat-Sided Rattslers.

Sébile has only been in business since mid-2006 and the product line is characterized by several unorthodox and exciting bass lures - the three-piece lipless Magic Swimmer swimbait, the swervy Slim Stick and humpy Ghost Walker, the fantastic Flatt Shad series, the unconventional Stick Shad, trumpet-shaped Splasher, unique Onduspoon hard plastic spoon and many other Sébile lures are truly original and unlike any others out there in terms of shape and application.

In 2009, Sebile introduced two crankbait series, the fat-bodied Crankster and flat-sided Rattsler. These are not as out-of-the-box and unconventional as many of Sebile's other lure designs.

The Rattslers are not only flat-sided but have ultra thin bodies. As a result, Rattslers are a bit light in comparison to their side profile size, since they are so flat and thin.

The flat sides stir and move a lot of water, creating tons of turbulence as the Rattslers wiggle along. The swimming movement can be called tight and frantic, and there is a lot of side-to-side full body flipping motion.

The Rattsler 85 ML and 85 VLL are the two I recommend for average, everyday cranking on decent size bodies of water for decent size fish.

I'd say all three Rattsler 65's are better suited for finesse cranking situations, for small ponds and small streams or where mainly small bass are found. The Rattsler 65's are suited to clearer water, smaller waters or finesse situations with light tackle.

The Rattsler 85's are more of your mainstream crankbait size, even a little on the big size (keeping in mind they are thin). Of the three Rattsler 85 sizes, I'd say the 85 SL would be the least used model overall since it runs very shallow. The 85 SL dives just 1-2 feet, and that makes it good for fishing over thick grass or jumbled shallow wood, through the crowns of dense brush fields and so forth. Those are great sitations where the 85 SL excels. But day in and day out, the most poplar models will be the Rattsler 85 ML which runs 2-4 feet deep and the Rattsler 85 VLL (runs 10-20 feet) for deep water applications.

"FAT BODIED CRANKBAITS"

I like a lot of the fat bodied crankbaits when working shallow or brushy cover, as I believe they come through it better, and have a wider wobble, which at times is just what the bass want. I use these more in the stained or muddier rivers and lakes, and I also like them for running over the weedbeds when the top of the weeds come to about a foot of the surface. Mann's 1-Minus, and Baby 1 Minus and Lucky Craft are my favorites for this style of shallow running crankbait. Again, I always try to match the forage of the lake, at the particular time of year I am fishing.

Also, many days when you couldn't get a bass to come up out of the Hydrilla for a topwater, such as a buzzbait, or a Zara Spook, you could catch a limit by running these baits just under the surface creating a wake over the grass and Hydrilla beds. Bomber makes a bait called the Shallow A, which is also good for this type of cover.

Another method I use to replace a spinnerbait is a Cotton Cordell Big O, the one I like best runs about 3 or 4 feet deep. It creates a good wake when I reel it slowly, or if I want to burn it, it will run just under the surface and serve as a search bait, covering a lot of water quickly. I like to throw this bait around the edges of the thick weeds in New Jersey's Union Lake, and others that are similar to it. It really works well there. If I want to make an even heavier wake than normal, I just go to heavier line for the crankbaits, say 20-25 pound test.

The thicker line helps keep the bait running on top. I always like to throw these baits to visible structure such as grass and docks,and most importantly later in the year, SHADE!

In lakes that are really clear, and have little cover, the bass will relate to a shade line.This is also true in Table Rock Lake in certain areas, although Table Rock does have a variety of structure, but little to no vegetation.

When I fish the shade line, I usually burn the bait. The most active fish will always be on the shady side of whatever structure there is. I cast beyond the structure, and burn the bait through the shade as close to the structure as possible. If you fish a lot of lakes that receive heavy pressure from water skiers and jet skies, and pleasure boaters, it generally creates a "Mud-line." Bass will relate to this very often. It generally is in the upper 3 feet of water, so bass will hold along the mud line so they can see what's swimming by. I cast parallel to the muddy water and burn the bait back to the boat. I usually use a white or Pearl color for this. I have used this method with success at Lake Hopetcong in the summer months. All these shallow running baits of this type produce bass well in the spring in California and Florida.

Many times a crankbait will run deeper or shallower than it is supposed to according to the manufacturer.

The Suspending crankbaits seem to run a little deeper than the floating ones, I suspect because they are a little heavier. The other places to target for bass with crankbaits in rivers, is the creek channels or bends.

River bends collect structure such as fallen trees and brush, which in turn, creates a great spot in slower current where the largemouth lay in wait of the prey. Differences in materials should also be considered when selecting the crankbaits to use. For example, plastic lures can be abused a little more than some wood lures, but wooden baits have better flotation and action many times. There are differences in the way they have to manufacture plastic baits and wooden baits, and both have their advantages and disadvantages in each situation. Trial and error,experience, and time, are the best teachers in these matters.

You can read all you want, but there is nothing like time and hands on experience to learn what works best and when.

One thing I do with most crankbaits though, is change their hooks. I only use premium hooks on baits such as Gamakatsu, VMC, Daiichi, X-Pouint, or other quality hooks. I replace them after a couple of months or sooner, depending on the use, and the number of fish caught on them.

You really need to understand and have good electronics also, to find the right cover, and select the correct depth. Many times anglers are either fishing above or below the fish. It is very important to have and know how to use a wide variety of crankbaits to cover the proper depth. I never stick my rod in the water to make the lure run deeper, as it causes you to loose contact with the bait. If you are after fish that are deeper, it is better to make a longer cast beyond them, and reel the bait to them. The longer the cast, the better, if you are trying to achieve maximum depth, as it takes a while for the lure to go down. When fishing for deeper bass there are better choices than some of the crankbaits I've mentioned above.

"LIPLESS CRANKBAITS"

Many times when searching for deep bass lipless crankbaits are better.Some of the better lipless crankbaits for searching and catching bassin deep water are a 1-ounce Cordell Rattlin Spot, a Rattlin' Rapala in1/2 ounce, Lucky Craft, the new baits by Sebile or Little George's.

These baits proved to be a life saver one day on Table Rock Lake, when the bass wouldn't cooperate on the other crankbaits.

Many times in Delaware Lakes and ponds, I have used similar baits in cold water very early in the year with success. These wil lalso work in the deeper, colder areas of the Nanticoke and Sassafras rivers early and late in the year. I usually stick with the Shad patterns for these baits, or solid chrome, although I have at times caught numerous large bass early with a red or orange color.

Sometimes it is just a matter of presentation. Before changing the lure or color, I always cover the area at various angles at different retrieve speeds. As you can see, there is a lot to know about using the correct crankbait, and I have just touched on the tip of the iceberg. There are other subtle variations in all of the above lures and presentations that can effect how a bait catches bass. After many years of trial and error, I am still learning new ways to catch more and bigger bass on crankbaits. And isn't that the way it should be? The experimentation, and anticipation of every cast is what keeps it exciting and fun.

These and other techniques can be discussed in depth with professional anglers and guides at Northeast Bass Fishing For Trophy Bass.

Steve vonBrandt

Sponsored by: GYCB (Yamamoto),Okuma, TTI-Blakemore, and Ambush Lures.

Steve was the owner of a bass fishing Guide Service in Wilmington, Delaware, Anglers Radio in Delaware and New Jersey, and Delaware Tackle in Delaware. He is a tournament angler and freelance outdoor writer. He has over 40 years of fishing experience in the Northeast and California. He has fished lakes, ponds, and rivers from 1962 until the present. His new website offers over 150 bass fishing instructional videos for free at Northeast Trophy Bass. http://delawaretrophybass.com

Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Detailed-Guide-to-Crankbait-Fishing-For-Bass&id=3031030] A Detailed Guide to Crankbait Fishing For Bass